This clutch is a cable clutch from a toyota 3k motor mounted to the motor for this purpose
First we check that the transmission fluid has been drained, which it has.
We then remove the drive shafts and gear linkage.
Next we disconnect the clutch operating mechanism
Then we removed the gearbox mounting's while supporting the gearbox itself
We then proceeded to remove the bell housing bolts
We marked the clutch cover to the flywheel for when we re-assemble it
Finally we evenly remove the clutch cover bolts to prevent distortion.
With that all removed we can now carry out our inspection
Flywheel has no damage and is show's no signs of wear or over heating and is suitable for further use
Pressure plate has no damage, but shows signs of wear, no signs of overheating but will need to be replaced
Clutch plate has no damage, but has excessive wear on it, no signs of over heating, but will need to be replaced.
Release bearing shows no damage, but has wear on it, no signs of over heating , will need to be replaced
Release fork shows no damage and it shows no signs of wear or over heating is suitable for further use
Release linkage shows no damage and it shows no signs of wear or over heating is suitable for further use
Sprigot bearing shows no damage and it shows no signs of wear or over heating is suitable for further use
Clutch housing shows no damage and it shows no signs of wear or over heating is suitable for further use
Sprigot shaft shows no damage and it shows no signs of wear or over heating is suitable for further use
Also there are no visible oil leaks on the motor
Our inspection has concluded that the release bearing's need replacing,
The pressure plate need's replacing,
And also the clutch plate needs to be replaced
(above: pressure plate & clutch plate)
Next we proceeded to do a run-out test on the flywheel using a Dial Test Indicator(DTI) the specification for the flywheel run-out is 0-0.15mm, our test returned a result of 0.05mm of run-out
We now clean all the clutch and flywheel surfaces to ensure there are no signs of oil,
we also identify the correct flywheel side of the clutch plate by identifying the raised side of it goes to the flywheel.
Next we measure the size of the sprigot shaft and find the dummy shaft to align the clutch
We then assemble the clutch assembly on the dummy shaft
Next we locate the clutch cover marking's
Then we fit all the pressure plate bolts in the correct order and tighten in the correct order
Now we torque them to the manufacture's specifications
Next we check that the alignment of the clutch is correct
We refit the the transmission and align the sprigot shaft into the clutch assembly
Next we install the mounting bolts supporting the gearbox until this is finished
The clutch linkage on this gearbox is adjusted with a setup on the firewall
We proceed to check all clutch linkage for correct operation.
We ensure that the clutch mechanism is working full and freely
Next we started work on a constant velocity joint (C.V Joint)
First we check the c.v joint for roughness, play or binding
Our c.v joint operated smoothly, our c.v joint didn't have anyplay that exceeded the manufactures specifications.
Excessive play in the c.v joint can cause damage to the joint and can result in the c.v joint starting to click under steering stress.
We checked all rubber seal's for damage there wasn't any on them
We remove the retaining clips and slide the boot out of the way
Next we place match marks on the driveshaft for when we re-assemble it
Then we remove the joint from the shaft, removing all snap rings and circlips
We clean the joint next so we can inspect it properly
For our inspection we check:
The outer race, inner race, ball cage, balls & roller's, spline's, threads, circlips, circlip grooves. we check for crack's, chip's, damaged threads, pits, etc
The outer race has no damage to it and can be returned to service
The inner race has no damage to it and can be returned to service
The ball cage has no damage to it and can be returned to service
The ball's and roller's have minor marks to it but can be returned to service
The splines have no damage to it and can be returned to service
The threads have no damage to it and can be returned to service
The cir clips have no damage to it and can be returned to service
the cir clip groove's have no damage to it and can be returned to service
The tripod should be replaced in this c.v joint should be replaced as it has dents and marks on the rollers
(above: c.v tripod, ref: http://www.manufacturer.com/cimages/buyLeads/www.alibaba.com/1027/e/KIA_PRAID_C_V_JOINT_AND_TRIPOD.jpg)
After carrying out our inspection we re-assemble the c.v joint to the correct specifications given
Day 2:
Today we started on our driveshaft and cross type universal joint inspection, for this we required the use of a big hammer, big punch, wooden blocks, a dial test indicator, screw drivers, spanner’s, punch’s and plier’s
The first thing we check is the driveline phasing, phasing is how the joints are mounted to the driveshaft on our driveline the phasing can’t be altered
The phasing of our driveline is correct as it can’t be altered so no correction is required
(Driveline in-phase)
The method we us to check the driveshaft for imbalance is to put it on a table in “V” blocks and measure it using a D.T.I at 3 different points, To correct a drive shaft imbalance you would put weights on the opposite of the high side.
(Driveline D.T.I test)
We used a D.T.I to test for driveshaft imbalance, for this test the manufacturer’s specs are 0mm-0.6mm the measurement’s we got where:
Front: 0.49mm
Middle: 0.44mm
Rear: 0.32mm
We check the driveshaft universal joint, this is done by checking for axel play and roughness in the joint.
Our universal joint operated smoothly, there was no roughness in its operation
There was also no axial play in the universal joint
This brings us to the conclusion that the universal joints are in good condition and can be returned to service,
Next we start to remove the universal joints, first we make marks for when we reassemble the driveshaft, we then then removed all the circlips and snap rings from the universal joints.
This concluded day 2
Day 3:
Today we removed the universal joints, then cleaned them for a thorough inspection,
We check for cracks, chips, damaged seal’s ,
(Cross joint)
The cross join surface shows no signs of damage to it and can be returned to service
The caps have no visible damage to them on the outside or inside, we checked this with a torch on the inside and can be returned to service
The rollers have no signs of damage about them and can be returned to service
The seal’s have no cracks chips or splits in them thus they are in good condition
The yoke surface’s show no signs of chipping or cracking so they can be returned to service
We proceeded to reassemble the drive line our report has concluded that there are no drive shaft problem's and this drive shaft is able to be returned to service
Howdy Cody ,it is looking like you are putting in some hard work.I thought of a few additions to jogg your memory,and that is what do you use to align the clutch which i cannot see,and when you align it what are you aligning the spigot shaft to.Alot of the components show a thorough inspection so maybe you could describe some of the signs of overheating and wear as you have detailed.Generally more detail can be added in places and that would include driveline mainly universal joints but this is pleasing and you are going well, so keep it up.
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